La Treille Massimomunicchi 8La Treille Massimomunicchi 8
©La Treille Massimomunicchi 8|Massimo Municchi

These five districts of Marseille are a treasure trove of tourist attractions

Whether you’re looking for a must-see or a little more out of the way, these five districts of Marseille have retained their village soul. They are home to tourist treasures and a remarkable heritage.

Published on 22 May 2024
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Jade Orengo
  • Marseille in 3 words

    Wonderful, diverse, native.

  • My favourite neighbourhood

    Les Goudes, and its quiet side (in the off-season) for sipping a drink and having an aperitif facing the sunset.

Marseille, the city of 111 districts

Founded by Greek sailors from far-off Phocaea in Asia Minor, the Phocaean city grew around its port for 2,600 years. The many villages and estates in the hinterland were gradually absorbed by the city, and many have retained their village centres with their churches, shady squares and local shops.

Made up of 111 districts, Marseille offers visitors a wide range of faces and atmospheres. With their feet in the water or on the outskirts of the city, they invite you to take a trip back in time, or invite you to meet new people. Discover five authentic districts by taking part in a guided tour or an unusual visit!

1. Le Panier, the historic heart of Marseille

Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest district, has been occupied since the city was founded. Although thousands of years of construction have carefully hidden the remains of the first Phocaeans, the district still boasts an exceptional architectural heritage. In the heart of the Panier, the Vieille Charité, built in the 17th century to provide shelter for the destitute, has become a venue for exhibitions and cultural events. Facing the Old Port, the imposing Hôtel-Dieu building was transformed into a palace at the beginning of the 21st century. Your visit to the old streets will take you past other emblematic historic monuments such as the Accoules church, the Maison Diamantée, the Pavillon Daviel and the Hôtel de Cabre.

As well as its historic and architectural value, the Panier district offers a picturesque experience, with shady squares lined with café and restaurant terraces, artists’ studios, designer and craft shops, and alleyways lined with old houses covered in street art frescoes… Even though the film crews have since moved to Allauch, the shadow of the series Plus Belle la Vie still hangs over Le Panier!

2. Saint-Victor, from an abbey to a district

If you turn your gaze towards the south bank of the Vieux-Port, you’ll see a building that looks like a fortified castle, with its crenellated towers. Before giving its name to the district of Saint-Victor, the Abbey of Saint-Victor, founded in the 5th century, enjoyed intense cultural influence in the Middle Ages: one of its abbots was even appointed Pope under the name of Urbain V in 1362! The building can be visited today, and houses crypts renowned for their stone Christian sarcophagi, over 1,500 years old.

But it would be a mistake to limit the district to its abbey! The Jardin de la Colline Puget, a green lung in the heart of the city, offers a breathtaking view over the city and the harbour. The Musée du Savon de Marseille (Marseille Soap Museum) recounts the history of this hygiene product, which made the reputation – and the wealth – of the city of Marseille for several centuries. Those with a sweet tooth won’t want to leave the Saint-Victor district without a diversion to the ‘Four des Navettes’, where these tasty orange blossom biscuits await them.

3. Vauban, the old working-class district

Rising up from the eastern slope of the hill at the top of which stands Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, the Vauban districtwas home to a predominantly working-class population during the first half of the 20th century. Today, it has become one of the most sought-after areas in Marseille, thanks to its dynamism and liveliness.

A number of designers and craftspeople have set up shop in the district, and now offer their creations: you’ll find soaps, pottery, household linen or unique clothes and fashion accessories to take home as souvenirs of your stay in Marseille.

Vauban’s bars and restaurants invite you to enjoy a gourmet break with family and friends. Among the most popular establishments are ‘Maison Vauban’, a traditional restaurant by day that transforms into a tapas bar at night, and ‘Chez Vallès’, a bistro serving generous, gourmet Mediterranean cuisine.

4. Mazargues, a fishing village without fishermen

In the south of Marseille, the old village of Mazargues has become a charming district at the gateway to the Calanques National Park. The narrow streets wind around the church dedicated to Saint-Roch, and are home to numerous boutiques, convenience stores, cafés and restaurants, all contributing to the vibrant life of the area. Take a stroll through the narrow streets and you’ll discover an architecture of welcome simplicity, with its old fishermen’s houses and covered passageways. The wash-house and church square are reminders of the simple daily lives of the inhabitants in centuries gone by.

To the south of the boulevard Michelet stands a monumental obelisk. Erected in 1811 on the Place Castellane to celebrate the birth of the King of Rome, Napoleon I’s son, it was moved to Mazargues a century later.

More unusual, Mazargues is home to the Commonwealth War Cemetery. This place of remembrance honours the soldiers of the British Empire who fell in the First and Second World Wars. A lawn, ponds and canals create a feeling of serenity conducive to meditation.

5. La Treille, Marcel Pagnol’s village

La Treille district lies on the edge of a desert of garrigue stretching from Aubagne to Aix. Its name is inextricably linked with that of Marcel Pagnol, who is buried in the cemetery at the entrance to the village. He spent some of his best holidays in the Garlaban hills, as evidenced by his autobiographical novels ‘La Gloire de mon père’ and ‘Le Château de ma mère’, adapted for the cinema by Yves Robert. The film-maker also shot several feature films at La Treille.

A stroll through La Treille plunges you into the heart of authentic, timeless Provence. The church of Saint-Dominique was featured in the films ‘Les Bastides Blanches’, ‘La fille du puisatier’ and ‘Manon des Sources’, while the fountain is a reminder of just how precious hill water is in this ‘land of thirst’.

Continuing your walk, you will reach Bastide Neuve, the holiday home of the Pagnol family. More experienced walkers can then join the paths leading to Tête Ronde, Taoumé, Garlaban, hidden valleys and white rocky ridges.

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