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Hiking in the Massif de l'Etoile

Marseille’s massif de l’étoile offers a wealth of hiking trails. It is also undeniably associated with the stories of Marcel Pagnol.

Geological formation

The massif ou la chaîne de l’Etoile – both names are valid – is a limestone formation dominated by the Lower Cretaceous, like so many other mountains and hills around Marseille. The whole area forms part of the ‘Little Alps of Provence’. Although its altitude is not very high (less than 800 metres), it separates the Arc basin to the north and the Huveaune basin to the east.

From its summits, hikers are rewarded with a panoramic view over a plain stretching from Marseille to the sea.

The origin of its name

It was the planet Venus that gave it its name, which was once confused with a star called the Shepherd’s Star. Our ancestors identified this star as a landmark that would set the pace for the daily lives of sheep and goat herders. It was the last point of light to shine in the sky before sunrise, indicating that it was time to take the animals out, and the first in the evening, announcing the arrival of night and the need to bring them in. As the massif is located in the axis of the sunrise, its name was quite appropriate.

We also know that in the Provençal language, the word ‘estèu’ means ‘a rocky point’. There are plenty of them here.

The vegetation of the massif

Despite its low altitude, the massif de l’Etoile has two distinct faces. The northern side (ubac), which is wetter, is wooded with Scots pine, Aleppo pine and holm oak. The area to the south (adret), towards Marseille and the sea, is mainly made up of stony, arid land covered in garrigue. There are a few wooded valleys, Aleppo pines, olive trees, cypresses, rockrose and aromatic plants such as thyme and rosemary.

Unfortunately, fires caused by the strong Mistral wind have contributed to the destruction and fragility of these natural areas. But since 2003, a large part of this massif has been protected by Natura 2000 status, in particular to protect endemic plant and animal species that are representative of local biodiversity.

Hiking in the massif

Covering an area of 10,000 hectares, the Massif de l’Etoile is a fabulous natural area that surrounds Marseille and has facilities to welcome hikers, walkers and all those who enjoy gentle outdoor activities.

Numerous DFCI (Forest Fire Protection) tracks and hiking trails of varying difficulty offer the chance to explore the hills and peaks of the Massif de l’Etoile, made famous by the novels and films of Marcel Pagnol.

Good practice for a respectful visitor

  • Car pool or, better still, use public transport, cycle or walk to get to your destination.
  • Use the signposted footpaths
  • Observe and admire the flora and fauna without picking at them
  • Respect the tranquillity of inhabited and natural areas
  • Driving motorised vehicles (motocross, quad bikes) is prohibited on all paths and DFCI tracks.
  • Do not smoke, do not light fires, do not throw away cigarette butts if you have not been able to stop yourself smoking
  • Do not contaminate springs and wells, as water is scarce and precious here
  • Keep your dog on a lead
  • Do not abandon rubbish, but take all your rubbish home with you, especially when the on-site bins overflow.
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