Hiking in the Garlaban massif

The hills of Marcel Pagnol

The Garlaban massif is undeniably associated with the stories told by author Marcel Pagnol. His autobiographical works take us along the many paths of the hills and valleys that form the natural backdrop to his most beautiful memories. Although he was born in Aubagne, it was in Marseille that he grew up and that we can walk in his footsteps.

The Garlaban

A real limestone massif

This limestone massif covers 8,000 hectares and several communes. It is made up of various peaks, including Garlaban, which gives its name to the whole area. And although it is not the highest point at 714 metres, it overlooks a vast plain that includes the town of Aubagne, the Huveaune river and the Marseille’s districts made famous by Marcel Pagnol, such as La Barasse, Les Camoins and La Treille.

Garlaban, the protector

In the past, it was an excellent landmark for sailors coming in from the open sea. Today, despite the increasing density of housing and buildings of all heights, the Garlaban is still a natural part of the landscape. From its summit, hikers can enjoy an immeasurable panoramic view of Marseille and the Mediterranean Sea.

The origin of the name

There are two possible explanations for the meaning of Garlaban.

‘Gar’ means ‘summit’ in Arabic and ‘laban’ means ‘white’ in Hebrew. This is how Frédéric Mistral explains the origin of the name, first given by Phoenician sailors.

This description is consistent with the appearance of this limestone mountain.

In Provençal, ‘gardia’ refers to ‘the lookout’ and ‘laban’ to ‘the cave’.

This explanation is just as valid for those who observe nature, particularly to find the rare waterholes in these fragile areas.

I was born in the town of Aubagne, under the goat-crowned Garlaban, in the days of the last goatherds.

Marcel Pagnol, My Father's Glory

The Garlaban, the world of Marcel Pagnol

A writer bound to his land

The creator of unforgettable characters and memorable scenes, Marcel Pagnol’s masterpieces are his autobiographical novels. My Father’s Glory, My Mother’s Castle and The Time of Secrets are inseparable from the places where the writer grew up.

Following in Marcel Pagnol’s footsteps

And even though 125 years separate us today from the writer’s birth, and the Garlaban forest massif has shrunk considerably due to the many fires that littered the twentieth century, the remains, the caves, the song of the cicadas and the scents of the garrigue are still there.

The landscapes of the trilogy

These landscapes undeniably shaped Marcel Pagnol’s life and guided his literary and cinematographic choices. This natural setting was the main source of inspiration for the writing of his memoirs and, naturally, many of his films were shot there.

Here you will find the bars of Saint-Esprit and the ruins of the farm from the film Angèle, Raimu’s well made famous by The Well-Digger’s Daughter, the Sourne baume, the Grotte de Manon des sources and the Taoumé where you will find the Grosibou cave described in his trilogy.

The heights of La Treille offer an exceptional panoramic view of the Garlaban massif. You can also discover the Bastide Neuve, which the Pagnol family used to rent every summer. The fig tree is still there.

So it’s not a mountain, but it’s no longer a hill, it’s Garlaban.

Marcel Pagnol, My Father's Glory

Hiking trails in Garlaban

There are many starting points for hiking in Marcel Pagnol’s hills. Some are accessible by public transport, others require the use of a car. Non-exhaustive selection:

Domaine de Pichauris in Allauch (car required from Marseille)
La Fève in Allauch (Metro 1 station La Rose then bus 142 to Terminus)
Parking du cimetière des Claous in Allauch (Metro 1 station La Rose, bus 144 to Terminus, then 15-minute walk to the ranch).
Route de la Treille in Marseille (Metro 1 station La Timone, bus 12S to Terminus)
Parking de la Font de Mai in Aubagne (car required from Marseille)
Parking du Puits de Raimu, Aubagne (car required from Marseille)
Allée du Garlaban in Lascours (car required from Marseille)