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La Nerthe hill

on the heights of l'Estaque

Between the Etang de Berre and the seaside of l’Estaque, here we are on the Nerthe hills above Marseille. It is a hilly natural area, covered with scrubland and populated by wild goats fond of the local vegetation.

The origin of the name

The hamlet of Nerthe takes its name from a plantmyrtle’, or nerthe in french provençal. Its berries are appreciated for their taste similar to juniper and the leaves of rosemary flavors.

The Nerthe hills are home to some curiosities to discover: a chapel, the remains of a medieval castle or brick constructions linked to railway tunnels. And then, the centerpiece of this space is the domain of Cossimont.

Points of interest

The Galline chapel

Erected by Saint Lazare according to legend, the current building dates from the Middle Ages. Remodeled in the 17th century, enlarged in the 18th century, it was restored in the 1980s.

In 1430, a colorful wooden statue was placed in the chapel. It depicts the Virgin Mary carrying the child Jesus blessing and holding a galline (a hen) in her left hand. It is She who gives it its name. The chapel contains ex-votos, mostly dated from the 19th century. All show the Virgin in a top corner of the table.

A popular pilgrimage takes place every 8 September, the day of Mary’s birth. It ends with a giant picnic where good humor and kindness reign.

Industrial remains of the Nerthe

Around you, a landscape of scrubland in which you will undoubtedly see a fairly short chimney, made of bricks: this is one of the 24 chimneys on the Avignon-Marseille SNCF line whose tunnel passes under the Nerthe Hills. Each chimney actually covers an access shaft that allowed the tunnel to be dug.

The domain of Cossimont

The architecture in ruins is the nostalgic witness of the working class occupation of these hills. The current buildings rise on a huge estate whose origin dates back to the 18th century. Under the leadership of the Marquis de Marignane, a hunting lodge was built. No trace remains of it. The developments date from the beginning of the 20th century, after the division of the property of Pierre Sacoman, tile manufacturer, in 1902. Then the SociétéColoniale des Chaux et Ciments of Portland acquired the site. Its director,  André Lindenmeyer, is said to have lived there from 1913, and the estate would have supplied fruits and vegetables to the cement factory workers. This is a unique example of a large farm.

Do you know the Rove brousse cheese?

Made from raw goat’s milk, this cheese is extremely creamy and contains no salt. The Rove bush cheese is presented in small plastic cones about 12 centimeters. It is a fresh cheese, without crust. Locals often consume the cheese simply with sugar. It also goes very well with honey, maple syrup, some jams or fresh fruits such as strawberries in spring. It can also be an ally of your savory recipes such as omelettes and combines wonderfully with artichokes! Bon appétit!

Workers’ holidays

At the beginning of the 1950s, Mr Lindenmeyer made the buildings accessible to his employees and a day-care centre was set up, much to the delight of the workers’ children.

For almost 25 years, the children of Estaqué spent unforgettable holidays in this corner of paradise. A shuttle bus would leave from the bottom of the village and make several stops to pick up the children. It was like a long journey for them!

In 1980, the site was no longer in use. The Lafarge company, which owned the entire estate as well as the ‘La Coloniale’ facilities (factories, cement works, administrative buildings scattered around the Riaux district) had the roof at Cossimont demolished, subject to a very high tax. The first demolitions took place, followed by abandonment.

The ruins speak for themselves…

The estate’s buildings are spread over three terraces. All the elements of a rich agricultural operation can be found here: an avenue of plane trees, a large field, the remains of a garden and an orchard. A long row of large farm buildings, dwellings and a manor house can be seen. In front of the latter, the vegetation marks the existence of a park where you can admire the rockwork that adorns the remains of the garden: dog kennel, borders of a bed, a table and bench.

Of course, it takes imagination to see it all! But the Cossimont estate remains intact in the collective memory of the people of Estaqué, and is now a walk in the footsteps of childhood memories.

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