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Estaque district

A bit of history

L’Estaque is one of Marseille’s many treasures: one of the 111 villages with such a strong sense of identity. We often hears the locals proclaim their love for their neighborhood with this sentence: “We are Estaquéens before we are Marseillais!”.

Its name comes from the Provençal “Estaco” which means: « to tie, to attach » the stake to which one moors the boat. Located in a fishing village born in the 12th century, l’Estaque was without any communication route to the center of Marseille except for a mule track. It was not until the end of the 19th century that this peaceful village experienced a dramatic upheaval with the installation of tile factories in the east and factories in the west. The clay deposits are of exceptional quality and the Estaquéennes tiles are exported as far as Mexico!

Entire families have come to work in ‘ l’Estaque’, mainly from Italian Piedmont and Spain. These populations participated in the creation of new districts such as Les Riaux in the west, but also in the appearance of a new workers’ housing: la courée (1). Fishermen, workers, but also people from Marseille came from the city center and built some “folies” (2): l’Estaque also became a holiday resort in the 19th century.

(1) Core-island urbanization in industrial neighbourhoods, generally consisting of one or two rows of low-rise houses in a private lane accessed by a narrow passageway.

(2) Mansions

A village of painters and colours

The heart of the village is located around the ‘Place Maleterre’ where, just in front of the church, you will have the most beautiful view of the harbor of Marseille and the fabulous viaducts of the Blue Coast line.

L’Estaque is also a land of inspiration for painters: Monticelli came to paint the Chapelle de la Galline, on the heights of l’Estaque, as early as 1860. From 1870 onwards, the famous Paul Cézanne was interested in shapes, lines and colors to open the way to abstraction. Braque came to pursue his research in 1907 and it was in the Riaux district that he painted “la maison à l’Estaque”, the first cubist work often eclipsed by Picasso’s “Demoiselles d’Avignon”.

It was also here that Cézanne made several stays dedicated to the pictorial research that gave birth to modern painting. There is a commemorative plaque near the Church of Saint-Pierre today.

Take a walk along the painters’ path for about two hours that retraces the great love story between the picturesque district of l’Estaque and the history of painting.

It’s like a playing card. Red roofs on a blue sea

Cézanne to his friend the painter Pissaro - 1876

Did you know ?

To find out more about l’Estaque and its way of life, don’t miss Robert Guédiguian’s film “Marius and Jeanette” which illustrates the way of life of the inhabitants of the courées, between solidarity and benevolence.

You can also sign up for our playful and poetic guided tour to learn a little more about this often little-known neighborhood!

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